Canned history at Kakaunui: Part 1

 

In the process of looking for anything connected to Maori history in the Oamaru region I took a look in Digital NZ and found something more than interesting where the European heritage for Kakaunui (Kakanui) is involved. 

Otago in the mid-19th century was a hotbed for agricultural enterprises, companies sprang up to make good on the wealth of sheep, cattle and grain being raised on massive runs such as Totara Estate, Elderslie and other large estates owned by wealthy investors and individuals. Otago (Otakau) was changed rapidly with the coming of the pastoralists once the Crown grants had been dished out after the Crown purchased Kai Tahu lands and in some instances under rather dodgy circumstances. That's another story for another time. 

I visited Kakaunui a few weeks ago and loved it. I also discovered where heritage goes? It's recorded but the narratives aren't detailed or in some cases like what I discovered not even mentioned in 21st century local history narratives. I found a couple of images of the New Zealand Meat Preserving Company's canning and boiling down works there at Kakaunui dating back to the 1870s/1880s period. Thanks to some helpful people who know the area well we also know where they were located. This will be a long post as in the kind you read over a coffee, snacks and you've got some time or read it in bits. Hopefully it will add to the knowledge of the area even if it's just a small contribution. I don't like short histories -- they tell you nothing because there's also a people element to these narratives not just some buildings or a bit of land.

The New Zealand Meat Preserving Company's works at Kakanui:
Image from the Hocken Collections

Like all things events start with a rumour, such as that reported in the Lyttleton Times (30 September 1869, p3) that a boiling-down or meat-preserving establishment would be set up at Kakanui, after the representative 'of a well-known Glasgow firm' was in the neighbourhood for a few days looking for a suitable site. The Times wrote 'Rumour says Kakanui is likely to be selected for this purpose'.

By October 1869, the representative, revealed Mr Moody, of Wotherspoon & Sons, Glasgow, Scotland had made arrangements to purchase a site from Lewis and Gordon Fenwick, although reports state CLC Fenwick [more research required] as the owner, for the purpose of setting up the processing works (Otago Witness, 16 October 1869, p14). The company set up in New Zealand by Wotherspoons was the New Zealand Meat Preserving Company Ltd, although on the title (OT83/41) it has the company, most likely a branch, as the Kakanui Manufacturing and Meat Preserving Company Ltd.

Timaru Herald, 20 October 1869, p3 Advertisement

Rumour no more. Not when the advertisements began to appear announcing the future intention to have boiling down works established to take care of sheep culled from the vast flocks around the region. Tenders were advertised for labour only builders in early December 1869 to erect the boiling down works (North Otago Times, 7 December 1869, p1). 

By January 1870, things were in process to have the buildings erected, tenders were advertised for the carting of 30 tons of coal from the Kakanui River mouth to the factory site (North Otago Times, 7 January 1870, p3) as well as the supply of tōtara and mātai for posts and mānuka for use as railings for the stockyards (North Otago Times, 14 January 1870, p4). A further advertisement near the end of that month sought tenders for the sinking of a well for a water supply to the boiling down works (North Otago Times, 21 January 1870, p5).

New Zealand Meat Preservation Company's boiling down works at Washdyke, Timaru
Hocken Collections

Boiling-down plant manager J MacLennan advertised on 24 February 1870 to runholders that operations would commence at the Kakaunui site the following month. 'Those wishing to quite surplus stock are requested to book their requirements early, so that arrangements can be made for delivery' (Otago Daily Times, 4 March 1870, p1).

In late April, the Otago Times (26 April 1870, p2) published a lengthy report on the complex erected on the hill near where the Kakaunui bridge, now currently being replaced, is located. Local knowledge from Kakaunui residents said the blood running down the cliff into the river upstream from the bridge was known as 'the blood hole'.

The OT correspondent wrote in detail the set-up of the works, buildings and processing of the culled sheep sent for slaughter by their respective owners.

But now I have arrived at my destination, and must proceed to give you some account of what I went more particularly to see — namely, the works of the Meat Preserving Company. On my way to these, then, I stayed to look at the men's quarters, which are neat and comfortable, and consist of a row of cottages for the married couples, and another building — the ground plan having the form of the letter L — one side of which is fitted up with sleeping bunks, and the other is used as a living-room, for the single men. Everything about the premises looked clean, tidy, and well-arranged.

Proceeding to the factory, about a hundred yards from the buildings just described, I was received vrith great courtesy by the manager, Mr MacLellan, who took the trouble to show me all the details of the establishment. I may premise, to enable you to understand what follows, that the boiling-down place is situated at the foot of a small incline, the killing-shed at the top of the hill, and the piggeries at the foot of the incline on the other side in a line with these two — there being a tram-way on either side, viz., from the killing-shed to the piggeries, and to the boiling-shed respectively. 

The manager's house, now nearly completed, stands a little farther back, on the top of an elevation, from which the whole works can be overlooked and a fine view of the surrounding scenery is commanded.

In going over the works under the guidance of Mr MacLellan, I began at the beginning, visiting first the killing-shed. This is a long building, open on all sides, so as to allow of the free admission of the winds of heaven, and is divided into three compartments. 

The first of these is a large pen capable of holding 300 sheep — about a boiling. Into this the sheep intended to be put through the process of trying down into tallow on the following morning are put over-night, in order that they may be dry and ready for the butcher's hands. Next to this compartment, and opening into it, are three or four pens (I forget which) in which the butchers take their stand, each furnished with a heavy iron mallet or club, and of course a knife. 

Each pen being filled with sheep from the large pen before mentioned, a blow from the mallet knocks the animals down one after the other with merciful rapidity, and the carcases are then hauled out into the third compartment, where is a platform on which they are laid with the head and neck over an open railing underneath which is a broad wooden trough. Here the knife is used, and the blood pours through into the trough thence falling into a large receptacle without the building. Close by is a large square box or tank into which, so soon as the sheep have been divested of their skins and opened, the intestines are thrown, a man standing ready to receive them from the butcher and strip them of every particle of fat. 

What remains, the paunches, livers, etc., are thrown into a truck which, as soon as full, is sent rattling down tho tramway to the piggeries— drawing up by a rope which passes round a pulley-wheel an empty truck as it descends. The hearts, having some small quantity of fat about them, are thrown into a heap to be sent to the boiling-house in due course with the carcases. The heads, which used at first to fall to the lot of the pigs with the other refuse, are made to serve another purpose by helping to keep up steam, being thrown into the fires with the coal. 

The carcases thus rapidly shorn of their superfluous parts, are taken to tho other end of the shed, where rails with hooks on each side are arranged, and where sheep to the number of three hundred may be hung up. Here they remain until sufficient number are ready for the supply of the digester or steamer. At the time of my visit a large number of carcases were hanging up, and really good mutton they looked. I weighed an average leg, and found it, though cut tolerably close, 6½lbs. 

These sheep were part of a lot of merino wethers from Deepdale Station, and would run from 40lbs to 45lbs per carcase. I was told that the yield of tallow from these sheep would be from 12lbs to 15lbs. A lot boiled down recently for Messrs Reid and Bathgate yielded an average of 16lbs for sheep of 44lbs weight. This would show a nett result of about 33 percent, of tallow. Ewes yield better results, weight for weight, than wethers, owing to their smaller proportionate weight of bone to 45lbs per carcase. 

To get the disagreeables over first, I followed the truck containing the refuse down the tramway to the piggeries, where it was shot out in a horrid-looking heap close to the wall, so as to be ready for throwing over into the hog-troughs. The piggeries are enclosed by a stone wall, and comprise a shed for the shelter of the rapacious gruntera, with a large yard wherein they feast their filthy appetites on their diet of horrors; besides separate enclosed sties intended for the accommodation of breeding sows, of which, however, there are none as yet on hand.

I should view with alarm the probable consequences to the health of the district if it were intended to convert these carrion-fed animals into pork or bacon — should dread lest the fearful experience of Germany should be renewed here — but it is not, I believe, so intended; but to try them them down into lard, in which form their fat can be made available for many purposes. But you will have had enough of the pigs, so now, literally, revenons a nos moutons [French: literally let's get back to the subject/topic at hand].

Retracing our steps to the killing-shed, we descended by the tramway thence to the boiling-house, arriving on a platform at the upper part of the building whereon the steam apparatus or digester, as it is termed, is fixed. This is a large cylinder of iron about 6 feet in height, and 4 to 5 feet in diameter. At top and bottom is a manhole, the former for packing the mutton, and the latter for raking out the debris after the tallow has been run off. It is furnished with a false bottom, upon which the carcases are placed; the steaming chamber holding from 250 to 300, according to size. 

An iron pipe entering at the top, conveys the steam generated in the boiler of an engine without (of this more anon) down to below the false bottom, through the perforations of which it ascends and fills the chamber wherein the carcases are packed; the melted tallow, and the fluid extract of the meat running through as the process goes on, to the lower part of the cylinder, whence the former is conveyed by large taps at various heights into the refiner, and thence to the cooling vats.

One tap however is found to be all that is required, as water can be introduced at the bottom of the cylinder from a supply-pipe, so as to keep the melted tallow above the level of the tap; the water and the other extracts of the meat of course keeping below by their greater specific gravity. The carcases are kept in the digester for about 8 hours, the pressure of steam being from 25 to 30lbs per square inch. 

The refiner is a large vat just below the platform on which the digester stands. Through the refiner pass steam pipes, by which the tallow poured from tho digester is kept in a heated state until all the impurities have sunk to the bottom of the vat. The fluid tallow is then conveyed along a wooden spout to the coolers, large shallow wooden receptacles, into which it filters through a copper gauze; thence, after cooling somewhat, being suffered to run into barrels placed below. 

I saw a number of them full of tallow from the last boiling. It was white as the best lard, and appeared to be of splendid quality; and no wonder, seeing the care which is taken to free it from all impurities whatsoever. None but the pure tallow is run off into the barrels, that which remains at the bottom of the refiner, and contains some atnouut of sediment, being put through the digester again. There are now a considerable quantity of tallow in casks ready for exportation.

While I was at the establishment the men were busy clearing out from the digester the debris of the last boiling-down, consisting of shredded flesh, bones, &c, the flesh looking like old tan, and the bones being as brittle as glass. This refuse has a sickening smell ... From the works it is wheeled to a large heap about 200 yards off, to which a tramway is now being made, so as to save labor. This heap seems to be the favorite resort of numerous pigs, which attracted thither by the quantity — certainly not the quality — of food, may be seen poking their noses in the nasty mass with lively grunts of satisfaction. 

I believe it [the heap]is intended to convert it into manure, and it would certainly make splendid dressing for the land; but in mercy to humanity it is to be hoped that it will be subjected to some process that will put an end to its dire exhalations.

Adjoining the shed in which the boiling-down, or more properly the steaming-down is carried on, is a cooperage, where the barrels used for containing the tallow are first steamed and prepared. At the end of this shed is a small donkey-engine, used for pumping water to a reservoir, consisting of ten 400 gallon tanks at the top of the hill, whence an abundant supply of the cleansing fluid is directed by hose to any part of the works. 

I was pleased to see that it was liberally used, for, from one end of the building to the other, over where the butchers ply their vocation, the most thorough cleanliness everywhere prevails. The steam used in the process is generated in the boiler of one of the engines once used upon the Totara station for driving the steam-plough. It is a great ungainly affair, and looks out of place, while if the works were in full swing, it would be scarcely capable of generating sufficient steam. A large new boiler already on the ground is shortly to be erected.

The whole appearance and appointments of the establishment reflect great credit upon the company's manager; but I was sorry to learn that it is not kept in full work, only some 2000 sheep having been boiled down this season, and only half the number of hands being now employed that there would be if the works were in full operation ; there being now a boiling only three times a week, instead of daily. In full work, from 1500 to 1800 sheep could be boiled down per week. 

Armstrong's Boiling Down Works, Charleville, 1898, Queensland, Australia showing butchered sheep carcasses in the background: Image credit: Queensland State Library Wikimedia Commons: Public Domain

Despite the good start, the works were facing stoppages, due to restrictions imposed on sheep being crossed at the Waitaki River from Canterbury in a measure to prevent sheep scab. As a result sheep in the district were being driven north to the Timaru boiling down works (Otago Daily Times, 30 April 1870, p2). In June, it was announced the New Zealand Meat Preserving Company had imported meat preservation and canning equipment, from Glasgow, for a new operation being set up alongside the boiling-down works at its Washdyke site in Timaru and Kakaunui (The Oamaru Times and Waitaki Reporter, 24 June 1870, p2).

In July, the Longbush operation in Southland, owned by the meat company, was already up and running for canning operations. Kakaunui-based manager MacLennan supplied samples of the tinned mutton for sampling. The North Otago Daily Times (29 July 1870, p4) published the results of the sampling in detail. It reported:

By the courtesy of Mr MacLennan, the manager of the works of the New Zealand Meat Preserving Company, Kakanui, we are in receipt of two tins (containing respectively 1lb and 2lbs) of preserved mutton, manufactured at the Southland establishment. The tins when opened showed the meat to be in beautiful condition, and compacted with clear jelly. The contents were entirely free from the objectionable odour which is often characteristic of tinned meats. The mutton was stewed and partaken of by several gentlemen, who were unanimous in expressing an opinion as to its excellent condition and agreeable flavor. We are informed that the New Zealand-preserved meats are superior to any yet exported from Australia and for which there is so large a demand in the London market. Whether this be the case or not, we think it impossible to improve upon the sample before us, and we have no doubt that the New Zealand Company may safely count upon a large— indeed, an almost unlimited demand for their manufacture.. This promising state of things is matter for congratulation to the runholders and the Colony generally. We believe that the manufacture of tinned meats will shortly be commenced both at Kakanui and the Washdyke.

By November, it was reported the meat preservation side of the Kakaunui operation was in the process of being underway ready for future production and was 'making rapid progress' (Otago Daily Times, 7 November 1870, p2). By February 1871, the plant for the preserving and tinning of meat at the Kakaunui site had commenced operations (Evening Star, 11 February 1871, p2). In the same month a new digestor was landed for the site at Timaru to expand operations (Timaru Herald, 25 February 1871, p2).

        Advertisement for tinsmith apprentices Otago Daily Times, 27 February 1871, p1

Almost a year after their last visit, the North Otago Times correspondent revisited the site at Kakaunui to view the meat preservation side of the business.

Durng the last fortnight ... the far more imporlant industry of tinning meat has been commenced — new and extensive premises having been erected for the purpose — and we now propose to give some account of these, as well as of the operations therein earned on, having visited the works only a day or two ago. And here, at the outset, we wish to acknowledge the courtesy of the resident manager, Mr MacLellan, and of Mr Sheriff, foreman of the works, by whom we were shown all the details of the process in its various stages.

The carcases are then skinned and the intestines and waste, after having been cleared of fat, are sent by trucks down a tramway to the piggeries. The clean carcases having been hung up to cool are then despatched to a large building near by, where the process of preserving is carried on. 

Entering the boning room we find a number of men busily at work there, with a deftness which only practice could give, cutting out every bone from the carcases; and others, to whom the boneless sides are handed, cutting off all the supcrflous fat. At another part of the room men are busy cutting up the meat into pieces of suitable size, weighing it, rolling it up, and putting it into the tins, while in a room adjoining others receive the full tins, and press down their contents with lever and block. We may add that a little pepper and salt is put in the bottom of each tin.

The tins, then ready to be covered in, are passed through a slide into another room where men are busy fitting caps or covers; each cover is soldered down, a minute hole being left in the centre to allow of the escape of steam during the next part of the process.

Passed from hence to the boiling room the tins are placed in large square iron boilers heated by steam, where the meat is allowed to cook for nine hours; the tins are then taken out and, after being allowed to stand for a while till the air is expelled, the apertures are hermetically closed and the meat is ready for consumption either now or years hence.

At present, the boiling-room contains three boilers, each capable of holding 300 6lb tins, but when the works are in full operation this number will be doubled. We tasted some of the meat and found it most excellent, and we may safely predict that the company's brand will take a very high position in the European markets.

The tins are then taken to a large storeroom where they are stacked m piles ready for putting up in cases for shipment. The most interesting department of the whole establishment ia however, perhaps, that in which the tins, 1lb, 2lb, and 61b., are manufactured. 

Entering the first portion of this part of the buildings we find ourselves in a good-sized room, around which run strong tables, or desks, while machines of various descriptions in busy operation, and stores of block tin, piles of cases of sheet tin, and ingots of lead represent the material necessary and the appliances required for the manufacture of the canisters for the preparation of the meat. The machinery is most complete. 

There is a machine which marks exactly the place at which each sheet is to be joined, so that the bottom and cap fit with the utmost exactitude, rollers, through which the sheets so marked are passed — six at a time — and turned ont complete cylinders; dies, which stamp out with great rapidity circular disks of various sizes; and a machine under which the circular disks so cut are placed, and their edges turned up so as to form them into bottoms or caps, while also a groove is made on the inner side of the rim. 

In the next room, where some twenty men are busily at work, the cylinders are soldered at the side and the bottoms are next affixed. This last is done by a very ingenious process. The cylinders being placed in the bottoms, a small ring of solder wire is laid within them, and they are placed on large stoves, and the solder melting with the heat, runs in between the cylinders and the edge of the bottoms, while the outer portion of the seam is brushed with resin, thus uniting it completely and expeditiously. The tins are then plunged in boiling water and thoroughly washed, and are then ready for filling and capping. Everything that could be done to render the establishment thoroughly complete has been done, and the result is that in all particulars the arrangements are perfect.

In the various departments of the works there are employed at present from 50 to 60 men, but that number is expected to be nearly doubled shortly; and the quantity of preserved meat weekly prepared being now about 15 tons, something like 30 tons will be the produce of the establishment with the increased strength. 

The boiling-down apparatus is now only used for the superfluous fat; but even now a considerable quantity of tallow is turned out, the sheep being in excellent condition, as may be inferred from the fact that one lot of 100 three-quarter-bred ewes sent to the works a few days ago averaged 108lbs. clean carcase, while some of them went as high as 140lbs. 

The Company have now some 2000 acres of land, which they propose to lay down in English grass for paddockmg. Passing from the works proper to the offices connected therewith we may mention that there are four neat and comfortable double cottages built for residences for the married, and living and sleeping rooms for the umarried employees. The cuisine has had a commendable share of attention, stoves, boilers, ovens, and all that a cook can require being ready to his hand, while board is found for the men at exceedingly low rates— the food supplied being both abundant and good. The whole works are overlooked by the manager's house, which stands in well laid out grounds on a rise fronting the river, and where already we notice the commencement of what will presently be an extensive plantation, adding much to the attraction of the prospect. 

The company had also taken over the landing service at the port and it was noted Kakaunui 'will become ere long a busy place'. A 500-acre farm had also been purchased across the river and had been grassed ready to graze sheep it had purchased (Otago Witness, 18 March 1871, p4).

A year after it was built, the Kakaunui Presbyterian Church held a celebration for its first anniversary. It was reported 'When the church waa built the settlers were few and scattered; but they have received large additions, owing to the establishment of a Meat Preserving Company, which now employs between 60 and 70 hands. The wilderness of yesterday is now a busy hive of industry, giving promise of vigorous growth' (Otago Daily Times, 8 April 1871, p2). Young tinsmith apprentice George Miller, 'a respectable young man', was charged in court for a breach of his contract by his former employer the NZ Meat Preserving Company: he had been employed at the Kakaunui works before he left and was later found working at a tinning works in Green Island, Dunedin (Evening Star, 1 May 1871, p2).

By May 1871, the NZMP was processing around 6000 sheep at its three works, averaging 400-500 head a day. However with a shortage of tinsmiths being available its production output was lower than desired (Bruce Herald, 17 May 1871, p5). 

Read more in part two coming soon.